Julián Mancías

After viewing Simon Spurr’s Fall Winter 2010 collection, it should come as
no surprise that he was a 2009 CFDA/Vogue Fashion Fund award finalist. The young designer’s vision of menswear is strikingly unique. Spurr, an England native, has said that “you can take the boy out of England but you cannot take England out of the boy.” The collection could not prove to be any truer. His collection also suggests that Columbia men and their NYU rivals may finally have something in common. The collection, with its heavy English influence, was a merge between uptown men and downtown boys.

It was refreshing to see youth, edginess, and effortlessly cool hit the runway. From the opening look, a navy blazer and black pants, to the final look, a striking black toggle coat paired with slim pants, and everything in between, the collection paid homage to the modern man. Glove-fitting coats and jackets, bespoke suits, hand-finished leather, and slim pants flooded the runway, creating clean, sophisticated silhouettes.

Styling at the show suggests that the designer’s clothes are meant to be worn by men who understand that the value of working hard is just as important as kicking back and relaxing. Paired with a v-neck sweater, sneakers, and a beanie, a charcoal colored suit hugged the body yet moved softly. The clothing fit well and yet was breathable.

Men will find the perfect office look, either in the luxurious burgundy and navy striped double-breasted suit or in the black trimmed charcoal suit. Slim-fitting jeans in black, white, dark and light blue paired with burgundy or grey sweaters offer the perfect alternative for the sloppy sweats so many Columbians wear to class. As Babyshambles music played in the background, one could only imagine that even Pete Doherty would approve of a burgundy corduroy pant, black leather jacket with zipper detailing and a warm knitted scarf for a night in the City.

Spectators at the Gilded Age presentation were drawn back to America at the turn of the twentieth century. True to its name, work wear played a pivotal role in the collection’s success. Plaid, selvage denim, wool pea coats, and worn in pieces were presented in a dim room very much appropriate to the overall mood.

The clothes looked organic, vintage, and comfortable. Most pieces had that special look that takes years to accomplish and can only be found in grandfathers’ closets and black and white photographs. The designer certainly stayed true to his mission of drawing inspiration from the past, so much so he even used pieces from older collections.

Though most of the collection’s accessories, like the fingerless gloves, plaid ties, and handsome leather belts, were absolutely covetable and accentuated the collection well, the hats would have been more suitable in a high school theatrical performance. Those willing to take a risk can do so with the suspenders and bow ties, a fine line between “effortlessly handsome” and “trying too hard.”

The opening and closing looks, a black velvet suit with red stitching and a kilt, respectively, were confusing and disappointing. However, men are guaranteed success with any of the collection’s jackets and jeans. Bombers in brown leather and grey herringbone give men a reason to look forward to bitter cold days. The classic khaki trench and pullover sweaters were just as handsome and the jeans were perfect – well fitting and stripped of adornment.

Complete with henleys, long johns, and knitted scarves, Gilded Age will be the one stop brand men need for comfort and warmth when next fall and winter roll around.

Gilded age is available at Bergdorf Goodman.