Californians rejoice, the burrito savior hath come… Or hath it?

The highly publicized opening of Los Dos Toros taqueria in Union Square gave hope to the hundreds of California transplants disillusioned with the Mexican food scene. Modeled after the famous Gordo’s, Los Dos Toros aims to imitate every detail of a classic West Coast taqueria, from the Mexican benches to the background music. There’s something a little strange about estranged West Coast burrito fiends attempting to recreate the taquerias they ate at so fervently on the other side of the country.

A San Francisco taqueria is an irreplacable experience. Women with hair gelled tightly back in baseball caps are swift and confident in their steaming, scooping, and wrapping skills. Every burrito is tightly packed, perfectly shaped, and flawlessly covered in tin foil. The tables are covered in left over rice and salsa spillage. Aesthetically questionable posters of Pancho Villa decorate the walls. My favorite taqueria from home had a giant painting of a donkey on its window, and clown mobiles hanging from the ceilings. Diners watched the Giants game playing on mute in the background sitting in booths colored a festive but by no means classy enchilada sauce orange.

But Dos Toros is a different experience. San Francisco expats (with their regionally instilled focus on “quality” and “health”—two details ignored at authentic Mission taquerias) attempt to capture the charm of Gordo’s with professional décor. But it just doesn’t feel right: sleek lines and a tasteful color palette have no place in an authentic ethnic food restaurant. The servers are NYU students from the Bay that unsurely scoop beans and carefully wrap loose burritos. They are not the still-handed Spanish-speaking immigrants with flawless technique.

This being said, the ingredients are great. I was initially disappointed by the dearth of refried beans, but the fresh pinto beans don’t disappoint. Perfectly seasoned Mexican rice mixes well with flavorfully grilled and grizzle-less chicken. The bright green guacamole doesn’t do the taqueria shame like most New York avocados and the salsa verde will leave you unable to feel your tongue (in a good way). Maybe the focus on quality isn’t all bad. Hopefully, with practice, workers will be able to improve their technique. But until I can me engordo en Gordo’s this winter break, Los Dos Toros will do.