Superfoods: Smashing Pumpkins

Following the uncontrolled gluttony of Halloween, the most urgent issue for many trick-or-treaters is not a swelling waistline; rather, the inevitable surplus of pumpkin leaves single parents, students, and professional partiers all at a loss. What to do with the rapidly rotting orange globes scattered across Broadway the morning after? Jack-o-lanterns should end their brief lives in the trash, not the oven. But think twice about discarding perfectly palatable, uncarved, and unsmashed pumpkins.

Fruits of Cucurbita pepo, pumpkins contain an inordinate amount of beta-carotene. As previously discussed on this blog, the benefits of beta-carotene remain heavily disputed. Nevertheless, pumpkins still contain relatively few calories and a proportionately impressive amount of dietary fiber. Only one cup of pumpkin delivers 245% of the daily recommended dose of Vitamin A, as well as rich loads of Vitamin C, potassium, and iron (www.nutritiondata.com). Apparently, pumpkins possess a modicum of utility besides serving as makeshift candlesticks.

If preparing pumpkin at home, apply low heat for considerable periods of time to minimize the unpleasant fibrous quality of the flesh. Additionally, removing the pulp from the rind may seem difficult unless the pumpkin has been roasted or boiled long enough.

A number of different pumpkin dishes work well in the home kitchen. Stuffing whole pumpkins with beef and vegetables in the Argentinian fashion results in an equally surprising and delicious flavor combination. Cream-based soups, such as the French soupe au potiron, are also easy to prepare on the stove top. To elevate such a homely dish, garnish with crème fraîche, pumpernickel toast, and sultana raisins macerated in brandy. Traditional Thanksgiving pies, however, perform poorly filled with fresh pumpkin. In that case, stick to the canned product to preserve a perfectly smooth texture.

Perhaps the most serious problem with pumpkin dishes in late autumn is a condition I refer to as “pumpkin overdose.” Every poser haute cuisine establishment or upscale eatery offers some variety of pumpkin purée, custard, beignet, or mash. Inundated with an unbelievable number of pumpkin iterations, some repulsive and even implausible in design, diners experience an ongoing pumpkin palate fatigue. Yet, on occasion, pumpkin creations do offer the delectably earthy, faintly sweet taste evident in only the most painstakingly constructed and cooked fall-themed dishes. Here, I’ve constructed an eleven-course tasting menu of New York City’s best:

Mozzarella, Pumpkin, Chestnuts, Mulled Wine (Dovetail)

Pumpkin Bisque, Cranberry Tagliatelle, Smoked Chestnut Cloud (Picholine)

Market Salad, Apples, Roasted Beets, Squash, Pumpkin Seed Vinaigrette (Alto)

Braised Pumpkin with Ginger and Scallion (Grand Sichuan)

Serrano Ham with Pumpkin and Marjoram (The Spotted Pig)

Short Rib Beef in a Pumpkin (Amazing 66)

Maple Pecan Tart, Mulled Cranberries and Pumpkin Spice Ice Cream (Gramercy Tavern)

Pumpkin Cheesecake Sundae (Telepan)

Pumpkin Cream with Brown Sugar Biscuit, Candied Ginger, Pomegranate Sorbet (Daniel)

Pumpkin Pie (The Hungarian Pastry Shop)

Pumpkin Pie Filled Figs with Caramelized Walnuts and Orange Sorbet (Wallse)

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Posted by
Jason Bell
November 2, 2009

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