Hazelnuts rank high on the list of delicious yet difficult to describe foods, joining truffles in the exalted pantheon of sophisticated products redolent of earth. What do the black truffle, a variety of fungus, and the hazelnut, a fruit of the Corylus plant, more commonly known as the hazel tree, have in common? Both possess elusive flavors that elicit thoughts of summer’s end and the approach of winter. For instance, the taste of hazelnut includes fruity overtones, toasted brioche, vanilla, caramel, and muskiness on the back of the palate. When that specific aroma combination blossoms in the mouth, the lucky gourmand feels a heady hit of pure autumn rupturing throughout his or her skull. For example, I eat a hazelnut and smell dead leaves crumbling in dry October air, the pages of a musty book, coffee and woodsmoke on an early November morning, and the sour perfume of dying flowers in September. (more…)